The Aging Adventurer Reports on Her SW Coastal Hike in England
Part I
The South West Coast Path begins in Minehead Harbor, England south of Bristol, and is celebrated by a sculpture of huge hands holding a map. We look like midgets standing in front of it, as a bystander snaps our picture. Portlock Weir is our intended destination 9.5 miles down the path; our book tells us there are many B&B's there. We decide not to make reservations ahead of time––deciding to be more spontaneous and see where we end up. There are some limitations to this policy as one has to end up where there actually are accommodations. We carry our belongings in our 20-pound backpacks––but no tent, pad or sleeping bags.
The start of the trail is paved, but it soon turns into dirt and gravel. On our right is the Bristol Channel Sea, where in good light we can see Wales in the distance. Waves lap the dark black rocks and pound against the cliffs which shoot straight down to water's edge. Between us and the sea are fields of purple heather and yellow gorse, and long stretches of rust-colored ferns spotted with splashes of green. In the other direction long-horned sheep graze in square patches of fenced in green. As we hike the trail we climb over gates that separate one field from another.
Soon we are offered the opportunity to take an alternative route called "The Rugged Coastal Path." It goes closer to the sea; the main path veers inland. The guidebook tells us, "It is a splendid alternative and not difficult and will give you much better views than the official Coast Path." In three miles it rejoins the main path. We're game. We choose this hike because it follows the sea so closely. We expect it to be rugged and have lots of long ups and downs.
We struggle up long hills on narrow paths to reach high cliffs; then plunge down into deep valleys. The motion of the waves pounding the cliffs and crashing over the dark protruding rocks is mesmerizing.
Emily Kimball makes her dreams happen.
I keep a travel list of adventures I'd like to experience before I die. High on that list is a hike on the South West Coastal Path in England. This 613-mile trail winds along the tall cliffs overlooking the ocean. The guidebook describes it this way: "Sheer granite cliffs which plunge into the sea, ancient stone monuments stand in mythical moors, family-owned farms and pubs so old they have no record of when they opened, dot the countryside. This is a scene to be savored, a land best explored on foot."
Emily Kimball, owner of Make It Happen! has published Appalachian Trail Stories and Other Adventures: Living Your Dreams at 60 and Beyond.
